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Barrio offers a selection of tacos both traditional and “deconstructed” (that means you get to build them yourself). Sadly, you have to have the same filling in all three.

(I wanted more of that octopus.) I chose the smoky skirt steak — delicious with a dollop of melted cheese and an onion relish wrapped in a sturdy blue corn tortilla.

I can see why — it’s a handsome dish with meaty cylinders of grilled octopus paired with crisped pieces of potato in a garlicky mayo.

The cornbread arrives in a cast-iron pan, is firm enough to slice neatly and eat in-hand, yet sports a texture so delightfully loose and crumbly that you may worry — needlessly — that it will fall apart.

I know I was wondering what to expect from this Near North restaurant helmed by Katsuji Tanabe of “Top Chef” fame.Always check the information provided before you book tickets. Barrio was bustling on a recent Friday afternoon, and I guessed there were two reasons: Maybe the crowd was pumped with that end-of-the-week-holiday-season vibe or maybe it was buoyed by a sense of expectation (or already knew what was coming). How it works is our friendly professional hosts will greet you and they will settle you in by briefly explaining the format of the Speed Dating evening.The Speed Dating in London will commence with the speed dating then taking place for the remainder of the evening.

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